I say not too far. It's ok if you own a car, preferably a four wheel drive, but walking is quite a chore. We've walked from San Markos in Ipsos, to Kato Korikiana where these people live, the last time we were over here. I did all the Google maps business and picked a route that took us straight across as the crow flies, rather than walking the main road route, which is quite out of the way. We got lost that time and the road dumped us back onto the beach, so we just walked the main roads. Including a couple of stops for a pint, that route took us roughly six hours.
I did the Google maps business this time, figured out where we had gone wrong and we loaded up with provisions for the journey. I had a rucksack and my cowboy hat and one of the locals in the bar where we had breakfast called me Indiana Jones. He was clearly taking the piss, but I've been called worse. They thought we were barmy to be setting off on a long trek during the hottest part of the day, but we're not mad, we're just British. As it turned out, he was quite right to get a few digs in before we left.
Google maps said forty five minutes. Two hours later we were in the foothills of a mountain on dirt tracks with no sign of civilisation
So we had gotten ourselves lost again, only this time, in the other direction. It took a full three hours of trekking through redneck country before we found civilisation and our first bar. Which was closed
We were still a good two miles north of our destination and our supplies were running dangerously low. Worse than that, we hadn't had a beer for a very long time
Eventually we made it to Kato Korikiana and found a bar that was open. While we were waiting for our beers, I had a wonder to look for this restaurant, '60 Needles', that Nisakimans friends own. It's only a small village but I had no joy, so went back to the bar and asked the waitress. It was right next door. To quote George Jones, If my ship's docking in the East, I'll be heading west. Indiana Jones, I ain't.
Anyhoo, the place was closed, so I couldn't say hello to these folks as they weren't there. My suggestion that we come back the following evening was met with utter derision
So Nisakiman, we tried, but no luck. Maybe next year
Open up, we wanna beer |
We're off on a boat trip tomorrow. If we don't return, avenge our deaths
12 Comments:
Bloody hell, I went there on holibobs in um... 1982ish...?
Looking on Google Earth it has changed a bit since then!
Great days...
You should hire a scooter so you can get around a bit. I don't know what they are currently charging, but a couple of years ago I got one for my daughter for €10 per day, high season. Places like Kato Korakiana are only five minutes away, then, rather than half an hour on foot.
I trust you've eaten at Spiro's psistaria (grill room) half-way up the hill above Ipsos, opposite the petrol station? Great views from the outside balcony, and he does the best kotosouvli on the island.
Anyway, enjoy the rest of your stay.
I wouldn't consider hiring a bike, even though I know a chap who rents them. There's loads flying around at the moment and they all sound fucked. And also the traffic is bonkers. We walked it for the experience though.
I've not eaten at Spiros's. From what you describe, it doesn't sound far from us. We'll see what time allows
You're right, they are all fucked - at least, the ones they rent to the Italians are. When I've hired scooters for friends and family, I make sure I get a new one.
Georgos (who has the franchise on the AB Supermarket) has to hire extra security in August, because the Italians steal everything that isn't bolted down. They are quite shameless about it. I usually avoided Ipsos in August. It's been like it for years. When I lived there (Kato K) in 1987 it was the same shit in August, except worse, because there were also a lot more tourists from UK then - the 'Club 18-30' crowd. It could take more than half an hour to drive from one end of Ipsos to the other back then, the street was so packed. The local bars liked it though. They were making more money than they knew what to do with.
Spiro's place is an easy walk, particularly if you're near the north end of Ipsos, the Pyrgi end. Just follow the main road that goes to Kassiopi, and just after the Agios Markos turn-off on the bend you'll see a petrol station up the hill on the left. Spiro's place is opposite that. And do try the kotosouvli. It's the dog's bollocks.
Miltos, also near the north end of the strip (he has seating on the beach side of the road) does decent food at good prices, too.
We rented a scooter and went all over the island as my then girlfriend was into Gerald Durrell... It wasn't until the bike stopped that we realised that the top of our legs were burnt to cinders...
Since 2002 I've been living in Cyprus. While the economy is still somewhat shaky it sounds in better shape than Corfu - and no Italians! Try it next time and have a cold beer on me...
The local scooter man says the northern Italians are fine, it's just the southern ones that are a pain in the arse. He was telling us how an Itallian lad rented the cheapest scooter he had and then came back to complain it wouldn't go up the hill. When he came back though he had a [quote] three tonne woman on the back. Of course he then wanted a better scooter at the same price.
I've not been in Miltos yet but the trouble is, the food is excellent everywhere. We have friends who own Phevos, a bit further down the strip, so have had a couple of meals in there
I'm not sure if you're saying your legs were sunburned or if they were just too close to the exhaust manifold. Sounds painful either way
We stayed in Paphos a couple of years ago for a week. It's the only time we've been but I would do it again.
We got sunburnt or more accurately sunincinerated and didn't realise until we stopped because of the wind.
Pafos is not quite my cup-o-tea, we live in Pissouri which is exactly half way between Pafos and Limassol.
Lovely island even though it has changed immeasurably since joining the EU. Well worth a visit tho...
We got sunburn or should I say sunincinerated as the we hadn't realised how strong it was until we stopped the bike.
I still have the LP 'Corfu Top 15' which we bought there.
Pafos is not my cup-o-tea really but nice for a holiday visit.
We live in Pissouri which is half way between Pafos and Limassol. You'd be most welcome!
You can also play us your LP...
I don't know how old it is but when we were just in Corfu, our local bar had VH1 on all the time and it was absolute rubbish. Ed bloody Sheeran every fifteen minutes. We insisted he change channel and he put a Greek station on. It was modern dancy chart pap stuff, but some of it was really good
You must have had some money squirrelled away then. Our Corfu dream is currently based on magic beans. It'll still happen though, just take longer
And I'll be renting a donkey...
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